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Why is Pouring Concrete(Cantilever Coping) Around a Fiberglass Pool so Difficult? (Must See Photos)


As I've mentioned before, one of the beauties of having a national pool blog is the fact that I get emails from all over the country from people who have experienced good, bad, and ugly during their swimming pool installation and ownership process.  When it comes to fiberglass pools, one of the subjects I hear most about has to do with concrete patios, and more specifically, cantilever coping.

CopingIn the past, fiberglass pools were labeled as ‘bath tubby' due to the fact that so many builders poured the concrete patio up to the lip of the fiberglass, versus over the lip(cantilevered) as it is usually done today. (Picture to the left shows what this is should to look like)The problem with pouring cantilever concrete around a pool though, especially a fiberglass pool, is that it's rather difficult to do unless you've practiced the skill multiple times.

You see, cantilever concrete around a fiberglass swimming pool requires the installation of special forms that are made of Styrofoam. These forms are temporarily attached to the lip of the fiberglass and once the concrete decking has been poured, they are stripped off and what's left is a bull-nose finish(hopefully).

The problem that most contractors have is that when these forms are stripped off, the coping that's left can be jagged, honey-combed, and extremely unsightly. This is mainly due to improper installation of the forms as well as improper handling of the forms during the concrete pour. I've even seen many cases where large clumps of coping have simply been ripped off the pool deck when the forms were removed. Obviously, such occasions are disastrous for the aesthetics of any pool and can be extremely difficult to repair without tearing concrete out.

This brings me to another major point. If you are considering a "Build Your Own Pool" or "Do-It-Yourself" fiberglass pool project, then you better have a good idea as to who is going to pour your patio. I've had countless homeowners over the years tell me, "Marcus, I have an uncle that does concrete and so we'll take care of the pool's decking." or "Marcus, I'm really good with concrete so we'll be taking care of the patio." Years ago, I would simply allow homeowners to go down this road without truly making them aware of the possible ramifications of their decision. But after having seen so many disastrous pool patios and copings, I now loudly vocalize these 3 truths:

  • 1. Your pool's patio, and coping, will make or break the entire look of the project.
  • 2. I don't care how many ‘pool decks' a concrete finisher has poured, all that matters is the number of ‘cantilevered concrete decks' around a fiberglass pool he has poured.
  • 3. Do not allow your pool's patio to be a contractor's guinea pig.

The picture shown here was sent to me by a homeowner who had his pool's concrete poured by someone who frankly didn't know what they were doing. They are a perfect example of what can go wrong when pouring concrete around a fiberglass pool and should be a reminder to everyone of what can go wrong if your don't do the proper leg work in choosing the right contractor for your swimming pool project.

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I also want to emphasize the need to decide, if you are doing a ‘Do-It-Yourself' project, on a concrete contractor before you buy the pool. Every year I get phone calls that go something like this:

"Marcus, I bought a fiberglass pool direct from the manufacturer. They helped set the pool and backfill it but now I'm not sure who is going to do the concrete. Who should I call?"

Such moments make me slap my forehead because in some parts of this country, there simply aren't contractors that have any clue whatsoever as to how to pour concrete around a fiberglass pool. Often times these homeowners end up settling on ugly non-cantilevered concrete or they end up finding someone who will do a stone/block coping instead, which is pretty expensive.

So keep this in mind as you prepare for your swimming pool installation in 2010 and if you have any questions/comments about fiberglass pool decking whatsoever, make sure you write them below, as we LOVE hearing from our readers!!

Marcus Sheridan

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Good article Marcus. We recognized this problem years ago and developed a solution that has helped many pool installers and homeowners avoid those issues you mentioned above. Vastec Pool Coping’s Coping For Fiberglass Pools gives you a cantilever look without the usual expense and hassles associated with styrofoam cantilever deck forms and coping stones or bricks. We’ve had many satisfied “do-it-yourselfers” and “I have an uncle who does concrete” types tell us how much they appreciate our product being available to them. Now if only we could find an easy way to fix all those bad cantilever jobs already out there…hmmm
Posted @ Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:29 PM by Gabe Sutphin
AAhhhh Gabe, somehow I knew this article would just give you a smile and you'd chime in;-)...Good to see you on here, and thanks for the comment.
Posted @ Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:33 PM by Marcus Sheridan
You're welcome! Hey, I get those same phone calls all the time... "Help! My cantilever deck is UGLY!!!"  
You have to feel bad for someone who puts all that money into their pool and gets a cracked and crumbling cantilever deck with that nasty looking concrete gunk dribbling into their pool. It just breaks my heart man. :)
Posted @ Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:52 PM by Gabe Sutphin
As I have mentioned before I have been building fiberglass pools for 25 years. We need to understand the reason for a cantilever decking. Back in the early days of the industry when we put the light blue colored pools inground the customer would complain about the color fading on the exposed coping around the pool in the sun. The pools would also develop a fade line and tub ring at the waterline level around the pool.The two fixes were to install waterline tile and pour a cantilever deck so that the area above the waterline would be completely covered so when the pool fades below the water line the customer couldn't tell the difference in the color and the underwater areas of fade fairly evenly. Believe it or not most builders can't get a pool level so a short cut would be to install a cantilever deck where the forms can be adjusted and set level to make the pool's appearance better. As a manufacturer we would have more service calls for the coping because that is where the pool has the most chance of being damaged in handling and installing or from covers or customers during use. This part of the mold also takes a beating in production and the granite looking finishes are harder to apply in the tight radius areas of the coping and the finish wouldn't look consistant so they wanted to have that area masked and the color finishes wouldn't be exposed to the sun to fade when the deck is poured over the coping or cantilevered. Our company Sun Fiberglass is proud of our coping and finish and detail each one so the customer doesn't need to add additional expense of placing cantilever decking if they didn't want to. One overlooked fact about leaving the fiberglass coping on the pool exposed is comfort for the users no skuff's scrapes, blown out pool toys the distance from the top of the pool to the waterline is tighter, remember with cantilever decking the deck is 3.5" above the top of the pool where the deck to waterline distance is 6-8" when the coping is exposed that distance is 3-4 " . Most fiberglass companies excluding Sun Fiberglass, do not offer warranty coverage for exposed copings and mandate the customer spend on average $2000 to have a cantilever deck installed . The problem with the canitlever deck installation is the instructions that are offered for the sytrofoam forms are not very clear for fiberglass pools ands some of the coping designs from the factories are difficult to get a nice looking job. If the installers are properly trained and learn the tricks of the trade they can do a good job, but like anything else it's a developed skill, a homeowner with limited construction expierence has the deck stacked against them to get a good result doing a cantilever. The Vastec prodcut is great for the novice they don't have to worry about the honeycombs on the edge and the forms stay in place. All cantilver decks will crack down the edge from the surface to the pool it's not a matter of if it's when and that can be expected. One alternative we have used over the years is placing brick paver copings on the pool and using pavers on the decking. The final decking really does make or break the project if the decking looks bad the project will not satisfy the customer.
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 8:48 AM by Curt Prystupa
Hey Curt, now that's a quality post! Although you and I don't always agree on everything, I do greatly appreciate your opinions, thoughts, as well as your efforts to educate the public. You bring up some valid points here regarding different fiberglass pool decking/coping methods. The nice thing is that upon reading an article such as this as well as these comments, a consumer can learn a tremendous amount as to what their options are. Keep up the great work!
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 9:34 AM by Marcus Sheridan
One thing I would like to point out is that the top of most fiberglass pools is 6 inches. If that 6 inches is left exposed it can be a hazard for slipping, this is another reason to have some type of coping on a fiberglass pool. Most people have children and although it is recommended they do not dive or jump off the sides they still do and they plant their feet on the edge of the pool when doing so. If this is fiberglass gel coat they are pushing off of it can be very slippery and a good chance for someone to have a serious injury.
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 10:08 AM by Jim Spiess
Another reason the industry has leaned towards cantilever deck finished for the concrete is spreader bar damage. Marcus made a post about repairing damage on a Leisure Pool with a spreader bar. The pools that need that brace or spreader bar accross the ahell normally has that fastened to the rim or coping directly, depending on how they were fastened or removed they would cause rub spots or damage to the top of the pool. If you tell your customer to cantilever the pool then you don't have to worry about repairing that damage. Sun Fiberglass uses a Critical Point Lamination process where the pool doesn't need a belly band, spreader bar or brace during the handling and installing so the coping damage is a minimal concern. Most manufacturer's use or require a spreader bar to handle and place the pool shell.
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 10:08 AM by Curt Prystupa
Most pool deck contractors gain experiance tiling cement pools. The process of installing forms is simple. Attach the forms to the top of the tile which was been water leveled by the tile setter. Someone needs to put water level marks at the top of the fiberglass pool and instruct the deck installer to attach the forms to the marks. This will insure that the finished pool is water leveled.
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 10:36 AM by Bob Ault
Speader bars can cause damage to pools when used improperly, spreader bar breaks or strap breaks, this happens very rarely. Most pool companies including Leisure use the same process of laminating their fastners on the sides. The spreader bar actually will help keep rubbing of the straps down on the top lip of the pool. Our experiance has been that the top lip of the pool looks fine when we are done setting the pool, but to leave it exposed makes for a bathtub look wheather it is a color finish or not.
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 10:37 AM by Jim Spiess
I swam in my first fiberglass pool as a little kid in 1976, and loved the fact that the edge of the pool was smooth and comfortable, you could sit on the side of the pool and not have the deck dig into your backside. When you had a heated game of volleyball and hit the side of the pool going for a ball your didn't leave a piece of flesh behind. The vinyl inground pool we had before had an aluminium coping it was hard an not very appealling The cantilever deck is a great way to finish the pool but in today's world price is king, kids don't care if the pool has no decking they want to go swimming, so many times people loose focus of what's important by $2-5K per project for waterline tile and cantilever decking may take some buyers out of the market and back to above ground or more budget options. We hear all the time XYZ pools is 5-8K cheaper and we really can't afford the higher priced pool, unless you reduce your selling price or scope of the project you just lost a customer. I have always made the choices available for a customer to let them choose if they are looking for a pool for the kids they would stay budget if they wanted to wow the guy next door they would upgrade. If you told a customer you can spend 5K on a cantilever deck and waterline tile or you could spend that 5K for heat and expand your swimming season each and every summer for a few extra weeks of use. The slip factor of the exposed copings hasn't been an issue with customer's that elected to expose the coping. Bob Ault and I have built thousands of pools with waterline tile and the coping exposed with great success.
Posted @ Friday, January 15, 2010 3:42 PM by Curt Prystupa
Man is that ugly coping!! thank god he fixed it, maybe need to hire me to fix the rest.
Posted @ Sunday, January 17, 2010 6:38 PM by Andy Gumbert
Posted @ Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:08 PM by mike cioffi
Any thoughts in adding anti-crack fibre to concrete mix to reduce cracking?
Posted @ Sunday, May 30, 2010 5:28 AM by Karl
I just had a contractor pour a cantilevered coping on my fiberglass pool. There are recessed rails for an automatic cover installed 3.5 inches above the top of the pool. However, the forms weren't set consistently around the pool and now most of the concrete slopes back into the pool. They apparently set most of the forms on top of the tile and not on the top of the pool. Is there any way to remove the concrete between the two rails and pour a new coping without damaging the pool. The contractor waited five hours after the concrete was poured to pull the forms off. Not much you can due after the concrete has set up. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Scott
Posted @ Sunday, June 06, 2010 12:57 PM by Scott Shaffer
@Karl: Yes, we do add fiber, and it helps, but it certainly isn't an end-all. 
@Scott: Sorry you're having this problem Scott. Yeah, sounds like there was a form issue during the pour. The coping can be jackhammered out if it is giving you problems, but you'll have to do it with MUCH care. Good luck!
Posted @ Sunday, June 06, 2010 3:01 PM by Marcus Sheridan
Hi Marcus- I have the same problem as Scott. I hate to remove the whole deck; can just the edge be removed and re-poured or brick coping added without removing the entire deck? Thanks
Posted @ Tuesday, June 15, 2010 4:05 PM by Michael
Hi Michael, and sorry you're having this problem. The answer is yes, it can be done. You could cut a section out around the pool and just redo it. Not easy, but certainly possible.
Posted @ Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:53 PM by Marcus Sheridan
we just got our fiberglass pool completed, however we are a little bit surprised by the finishing of the concrete cantilever deck. The pool guys told us that they were done with sanding it. But we can see at some corners the marks made by the duct tapes that was holding the cantilever forms; at some locations, there are some "nails" or wire ties poking out of the deck that were not sanded. Now it has been barely one month that the deck has been poured, and there is already a large crack forming on the deck. Also some Styrofoam are stuck in the cantilever deck. 
I put some pictures and comments here : 
I'm pretty sure that our cantilever deck has not been finished properly. we are a little bit fed up with our pool guys: I told them that some curves looked rough, and he answered me that they did as much as they could; however, I can really see where they sanded properly and where they didn't. 
Anyway, I guess my questions are: 
1. Do you agree that this cantilever deck is unfinished? This is my first pool, so any input from pool's owner will be welcome. Before giving any bad reviews on this company, I want to be sure that my complaint is justified. 
2. How can I finish it? Can I just sand it? If so should I use a special tool/paper? How do I protect the pool (especially the water) from the dust coming from the sanding? 
Many thanks, 
Posted @ Sunday, July 04, 2010 1:29 PM by Charlotte
Hi Charlotte. So sorry you're having a tough time with this. I looked at your photos and yes, it's not a very good job. Although there will always be some variation/slight patching with cantilevered, yours is a little worse than normal.The hairline crack on the top of the deck is likely not structural, and the hairline crack on the coping was caused because they did not put a saw cut through the coping coming off the expansion joint on top of the pool. In fact, joints always need to be put in the face of the coping otherwise it will end up getting a hairline there....Again, not structural but aesthetic....As for the rest of the coping, I'm not sure what to say as to what more can be done, other than some general patching, sanding, etc. Best of luck to you with this Charlotte.
Posted @ Thursday, July 08, 2010 9:13 AM by Marcus Sheridan
Thanks Marcus, 
Overall the deck looks good, there are just a couple of locations that are not great. So I am not very upset about it, but I would like to smooth some of these edges by hand. I'm not sure what kind of sand paper I should use: any gray one should do it, right?
Posted @ Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:47 PM by Charlotte
We had a fiberglass pool installed with cantilever deck a couple of years ago. The coping edge did not come out even vertically if you understand what I mean. There are places where the concrete edge dips down toward the water further than the rest of the edge like the form wasn't set even or the concrete seeped under it, etc. We recently had waterline tile installed. The installer started at the low point of the concrete and then leveled the tile from there. So, at the low point of the concrete there is about a 1/4 inch grout line between the tile and the concrete, but elsewhere there's over an inch wide grout line. So now I have this big grout mess that looks like a bad caulk job. I keep thinking they should have trimmed the bottom edge of the concrete lip up, so that they could set the tile with a reasonable grout line on the top. I've never seen tile with a 1+ inch grout line like this on the top. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Posted @ Friday, July 09, 2010 10:32 AM by Mark Coons
There are a wide range of colors available in 1X1 and 2X2 tiles. There is probebly a color that would match or compliment your water line tile. These tiles could be taper cut to fill in the 1+ inch gap.I've done this many times. It isn't perfect, but it looks way better than what you've got.
Posted @ Friday, July 09, 2010 1:07 PM by Bob Ault
Thanks for the feedback. Can you comment on how the tile should have been done in the first place? The low spot in the concrete is only about 6 inches long. I'm still thinking that could have been "trimmed up", then all the tile could have been set at 1/4 or half inch below the deck, rather than having this horrendous 1+ inch grout line around the entire pool. Would you have set it over an inch below the deck in the first place, or would you have "trimmed" the concrete? I'm just wondering if there's some aspect that I'm overlooking, i.e. maybe you can't trim the concrete up like that for some reason. Thanks.
Posted @ Wednesday, July 14, 2010 3:58 PM by Mark Coons
Hi Mark, The correct way to install tile on a fiberglass pool is: 1) install the pool 2) install the tile waterlevel 3) pour the deck to the top of the tile. Retrofit tile can cause a problem, as in your case. I would never cut the deck. I would cut the tile to fit the deck. All pool tile setters are traind to water level the tile no matter what. If the water stricks the tile at the same level all the way around the pool, the tile setters did their job correctly. Should of, could of, would of will not fix the problem. The materials to fix the problem are: materials = $170.00 wet saw from Lowes or Home Depot = $80.00. Total cost $250.00 and 1 days labor. The fix can be achived without draining any water from the pool. I'm sorry for your problem. At least it's one that can be fixed.
Posted @ Thursday, July 15, 2010 9:03 AM by Bob Ault
What kind of price difference is there from a brushed concrete deck to having the cantilever edge with the brushed concrete deck? I am trying to keep my cost down, but I dont want it to look like a big bathtub in concrete. The light blue color will help I guess but I'm just worried what it will look like without it.
Posted @ Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:55 PM by mudtire08
The pool deminsions are 12'2" x 26'5" rectangle. 
Posted @ Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:21 PM by mudtire08
@Bob Ault: Thanks for answering questions buddy....still waiting for you to write a guest post btw!! 
@Mudtire08: Yes, there is a big difference in the look. Most companies add around 2k for the cantilevered look, assuming it's not included in the regular package.
Posted @ Friday, July 16, 2010 11:35 AM by Marcus Sheridan
Thanks Marcus
Posted @ Friday, July 16, 2010 1:19 PM by mudtire08
Thanks for the response Bob. Wish I would have known that before we had the deck poured. I would have done the tile then. Our installer assured us the tile could be done at any time, and we were at our budget limit so.... Oh well. Live and learn. Guess I'll know better if I ever do another pool. Sounds like we'll just have to make this look the best we can and live with it. Thanks again for your feedback. 
Posted @ Monday, July 19, 2010 3:41 PM by Mark Coons
Putting brick coping around edge of fiberglass pool. Already put tile at waterline with special glue. Am not sure about cement on the fiberglass rail around pool, when I mud them in will cement adhere to fiberglass or should I build up off the fiberglass and use the same glue on the fiberglass?
Posted @ Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:15 PM by Dan Harrington
Any thoughts on using 24x48x2 stone coping around a fiberglass pool. Thought the concrete would be poured to the lip of pool about 20+ inches wide and the stone attached atop concrete and cantilevered over the pool an inch or so. Any potential problems to consider
Posted @ Sunday, July 25, 2010 7:19 AM by Louis
You should be fine Louis.
Posted @ Wednesday, July 28, 2010 12:59 PM by Marcus Sheridan
i am in the process of getting fiberglass pool installed. We are close to comnpletion. During the pouring of the concrete patio it seems as though some may have splashed into the pool. I now have several spots on the bottom.  
Two questions are:  
1- is this a normal occurence and should i expect the contractor to fix this?  
2- what can i do to remove these?  
Posted @ Sunday, October 17, 2010 8:10 PM by sean G
Hi Sean, and thanks for stopping by. Yes, it is a normal occurrence and yes, contractors do typically clean it-- which shouldn't be that hard. Let me know how it goes, thanks!
Posted @ Monday, October 18, 2010 11:47 AM by Marcus Sheridan
the area where we want to install a fibreglass pool is currently a concrete area of approx 40m. We want to install a small splash pool. Is it possible to cut out of the concrete the area we'll need to put the pool into and use the existing concrete to tile around the fibreglass pool?
Posted @ Friday, February 25, 2011 4:55 AM by Lucasha
Hi Lucasha. Is it possible? Yes. Will it be easy? No. There needs to be some access area for equipment, so there is a good chance you'll need to cut out a further portion of the patio to allow for said access.  
Good luck!
Posted @ Friday, February 25, 2011 11:15 AM by Marcus Sheridan
We live in Pennsylvania, just outside of Philly, and had a 14 X 31 Viking Fiberglass pool with a deep end of 7' installed on April 22nd. I am anxious to have the concrete poured and asked our contractor if it could be done on May 18th (almost 4 weeks later). He keeps saying we should way but won't specify how long. I know the pool needs time to settle but we have had rains and I'd love to know HOW LONG!!
Posted @ Sunday, May 08, 2011 7:44 PM by Lee Berg
Hi Lee, and thanks for stopping by. If a pool is backfilled with gravel, and the base below the patio is gravel/properly compacted, there should be no 'wait' time for your patio. The only reason to wait for a patio is because someone used a bunch of fill dirt and thus settlement will occur....for potentially many months. I'm not saying this is what your contractor did, but we have installed patios the same day of installing the pool before. Time means nothing with proper installations. 
Good luck, 
Posted @ Sunday, May 08, 2011 7:55 PM by Marcus Sheridan
What do you recommend for repairing cracked and crumbling pool cantilevering? Mine is a mess and getting worse every year.
Posted @ Friday, May 13, 2011 12:07 PM by Mary
Sadly Mary, there is nothing much you can do with old/bad concrete other than to take it out and repour. Good luck!!
Posted @ Friday, May 13, 2011 12:20 PM by Marcus Sheridan
What is the difference between Cantilever and Bull Nose Coping?
Posted @ Friday, August 19, 2011 7:43 PM by Brenda
How you call plastic molding which going around the pool between bottom of the concrete patio and top of the fiberglass pool? Divider? Separator? Splash guard? 
Thank you!
Posted @ Thursday, September 01, 2011 1:44 PM by V
Hi everyone. I am certainly getting more dissapointed as I read the comments. I had a leisure 38ft. fiberglass pool installed in 2008. The Contractor showed gorgeous pics from their brochure on how he could pour the concrete and give a bullnose look going 6' deep all the inside of pool instead of the lip of the pool showing on the outer edge. 6 months after it was finished pieces started coming off. We noticed hairline cracks all over the place. The contractor came back and repaired with more cement just patching. It got worse. He came back and said that the problem was from defective foam that was used. I noticed someone mentioned that. He said he ordered more foam and he would have to come back and cut out a foot of concrete all around pool and redo it. that was the last time we saw him. He never came back. Didn't answer calls. Then we heard he moved away never to be found. So now we have not only that problem but big cracks where we have the ladder and the arm rail and the skimmer. Is it really possible to get concrete to adhere to fiberglass long term. Can someone advise us the best way for us to repair it ourself. Thanks in advance. 
Posted @ Saturday, January 07, 2012 6:37 PM by Bourque
So sorry you're having all these problems Bourque.To answer your question, yes, it's very possible to have concrete adhere to glass for the long term, but it sounds like you either had a bad batch of concrete with your pool or a bad finisher..or both. Either way, sadly, you're going to have to tear it out and repour to make it 'right'. 
Best of luck to you, 
Posted @ Tuesday, January 10, 2012 1:04 PM by Marcus Sheridan
Marcus thanks for your quick reply. I am getting different opinions regarding if I should tear ALL the patio out and start over. The outer concrete appears to be holding up good. Can I just cut 2 feet out all around the pool and repour and this time maybe using the bricks that go over the edge of the pool instead of the concrete bull nose edge going into the pool side 6" as it is now. I realize I would have new concrete butted up to new concrete but I would have to find a way to cosmetically to deal with that.
Posted @ Tuesday, January 10, 2012 7:01 PM by Bourque
Correction >>> 
New concrete butted up to existing concrete.
Posted @ Tuesday, January 10, 2012 7:04 PM by Bourque
Hi again Bourque. Yes, you can cut it out all the way around. 2' is a good amount, and I've seen that done many times so it should end up fine. The only thing I'd suggest is a different color for the initial, as that will have a nice cosmetic effect on things. Good luck!
Posted @ Wednesday, January 11, 2012 8:04 AM by Marcus Sheridan
having similar problems others are having with cantilevel nosing falling off. Stegmeyer Forms says a plumb strip should have been used, which returns the concrete to the top of the pool, not feathered down to the sides of the pool. this was not the case when deck was poured, now I found out. Can you recommend a fix? Some say to tear out the deck and start over, surley there is simplier fix.
Posted @ Monday, March 05, 2012 6:12 PM by max richard
just an update and not much of one. Now that we are entering a warmer season I am getting some Pool installers to come by give a quote & how they would do it. I am not going to let them know I have gained some insight knowledge from this Blog. Going to be like the Cinderella slipper. When I get one to tell me he will do it exactly how I have learned here it should be done that's who I will choose. As for the cost I am not going to fall over when they quote I am expecting at least 5000.00 or more to fix this mess up. I am still checking in and maybe it won't be as bad as I think but I will come back with updates. Max I hope you are right.
Posted @ Monday, March 05, 2012 10:58 PM by Bourque
Hi, Is the cement (up to the lip or cantilevered) around a fiberglass pool necessary? I had to remove the old cement 2' all around the pool and now want to do a wood patio instead. Was the cement keeping my pool from floating up? would wooden 2x4's set perpendicular and 'on top'(cantilevered 2x4's so to say) of the rounded pool top keep the pool in? Thanks.
Posted @ Friday, May 25, 2012 12:37 AM by Philippe
Hi, I bought a house with an in ground Fiberglass Pool. The pool edges I am assuming cantilever is crumbling and falling into the pool. Can you tell me please what is the best cost effective repair for this type of problem? Can you tell me what repair materials or kits would be best? Thanks very much
Posted @ Thursday, August 23, 2012 11:12 AM by Michael
Michael, to be honest, if it's that bad you might have to tear it out and replace. Sounds like it might be bad concrete.
Posted @ Thursday, August 23, 2012 2:47 PM by Marcus Sheridan
Since the tile covers the waterline for better astethics after sun fading I have a couple of questions: (1) does an indoor pool indoors need waterline tile? (2) could I drop the water level in the pool and add the tile a couple of years later?
Posted @ Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:24 AM by Margaret
Hi Margaret, even indoors, you will likely see some bit of fading over time if you're using a chlorine as your main chemical. This being said, the fading may be very, very little. 
As for adding tile later, you could, but because it sits on top of the glass it might look a little "off" where it meets the coping ridge. 
Good luck!
Posted @ Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:28 AM by Marcus Sheridan
Had cracking cement near the edge of my fiberglass pool. My 'cement' guy said he could file underneath and replace the piece with adhesive as a patch. Instead, he put it in and 'grouted' it in , not with cement, but with a poly substitute that cures in cold weather. Not sure how long it will take to cure, but can I remove it? HOw? It is now a lump, rather than smooth. If I wanted to replace more of the cement, how do I remove it?
Posted @ Sunday, December 09, 2012 9:52 AM by janet
Hi, we have recently installed a fibreglass pool ourselves..very heavy rain has delayed plumbing and coping. How long can we leave it with out coping. It is filled and back filled. Thank you
Posted @ Wednesday, February 27, 2013 3:10 AM by Julie
Implementation of Concrete Curing Compound with the help of pouring concrete should be renovate here by installing concrete.Installing concrete is a challenging job and every concrete placement is different. Size, shape, color, finish and depth of a residential project all have to be considered when pouring concrete. Once these items are decided on, the steps to place concrete are relatively always the same in regard to layout, preparation, and concrete placement. 
Posted @ Thursday, March 21, 2013 2:01 AM by Concrete Curing Compound
Doing a repair on concrete cracked from a hand rail. Anybody know where I can get one piece of 1CF112 coping instead of buying a whole box? 
Posted @ Tuesday, April 16, 2013 3:04 PM by Bob Binder
I have a fiberglass pool that is a year old and has went through its first winter here in south east Michigan. I am happy with the concrete so far. However I am worried about the coping... the saw cuts that come up into the coping have a crack in them. I understand saw cuts are meant to be were the crack occurs. Although I don't want the crack where it meets the pool to chip or worse yet form another crack and have a chunk fall out. Would anyone recommend filling the saw cuts with a flexible concrete sealer to keep the water out before this up coming winter? Also is it common for concrete anchor bolts (red heads) to start pulling out of the concrete that are used for a slide?... Mine are... and I am trying to think of different solutions
Posted @ Thursday, July 25, 2013 9:12 AM by chris
Hi - we are in the Bahamas. Does anyone come here to work on "bathtub" installation on fiberglass pools. We are looking to improve the look of the patio.
Posted @ Saturday, November 16, 2013 6:16 AM by Julia Lee
That seems like a lot of work for no benefit. Over here in hot & sandy Perth (Western Australia) many many people have pools, and most are fiberglass. We all just glue bullnose pavers to the coping and then pave alongside with the matching paver. Easy peasy.
Posted @ Saturday, December 14, 2013 5:34 PM by Fayley
Posted @ Sunday, March 02, 2014 5:01 AM by PATTI
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