Posted by Jason Hughes on Fri, May 28, 2010 @ 09:27 AM
If you want a crash course on the finer details of a fiberglass pool installation then you've come to the right place. Contained in this article are points of a fiberglass pool project that are NOT frequently covered on the internet, or possibly even in your backyard with your contractor, but are absolutely essential to a successful installation. These are the things you absolutely should know before the first piece of equipment shows up.
These points are in random order. Get ready for a Fiberglass Pool Feeding Frenzy!
1. If electrical hook-up is not included in the contractor's standard package keep this in mind:
The further your filter system is from the house (or an existing sub-panel) the more the initial electrical hook-up cost will be. In our area, placing the filter system in the yard as opposed to being adjacent to the house will increase the price $500-$1000.
2. The filter system does not need to be enclosed to protect it from the weather. It's made to be outside already!
3. The filter system does not need to be located directly beside the pool. On most occasions as long as it is within 50'-60' of the pool its fine....and it can be much, much further away if needed. Read more about filter system location here.
4. Most contractors do not pour a concrete pad for the pump and filter system to sit on. They usually bring out one of those plastic deals like the ones used for your house hvac units.
5. You need to become familiar with the term bonding because many regions have not adopted the latest bonding requirements for fiberglass pools (which are necessary) and therefore some local contractors may not be bonding their pools properly.
6. Bonding is essentially a means of making all components around the pool that bathers come in contact with the same voltage potential. In non-pool guy terms, it's a way to insure swimmers do not get shocked by the stuff around the pool. This is accomplished by connecting these components together with a bare copper wire. The things that need to be bonded around the pool include but are not limited to handrails, ladders, slides, metal pool lights, the pool deck, and the water in the pool. I can't emphasize the importance of proper bonding enough....please research it and ask your pool guy how he bonds his pools. Getting zapped by a handrail can be a traumatizing experience.
7. 
Most areas require a plug-in service receptacle between 10' and 20' of the water's edge of the pool so plan accordingly. Everyone asks the same question..."why?" Best I can figure is because at 10' a standard cord on an appliance will not reach pool-side, and at 20' folks will break out the extension cord in order to reach the pool area.....in which case it may get a little too close to the pool, Ouch!
8. Regarding pool decks: if you are considering concrete as your material of choice, you need to understand that IT CRACKS! It is a guarantee that concrete will crack every 12'-15' throughout a pool deck. Contractors understand this and install control joints (cut, groves, or pieces of material) in the concrete to attempt to force the crack to occur within the pretty straight line of their joint. The problem is that sometimes concrete decides to crack where it wants despite the intentions of the contractor. These "shrinkage cracks" are not structural in nature and are not indicative of unsuitable concrete, an unstable base, or poor workmanship. There is no guarantee that you will get a shrinkage crack on your patio, but if the chance of it occurring makes you shudder, you might want to consider another option....like pavers or natural stone.
9. Pool coping is the material that borders the inside of the pool and provides the transition between the pool and the patio. 90% of all fiberglass pools installed in the United States have what's known as
cantilevered concrete coping. This is a poured-in-place concrete coping that's affordable, looks great, and lasts a long, long time. However, most fiberglass pool installers will tell you that it is also the most difficult portion of the project. Make sure your concrete finisher is a well seasoned cantilevered concrete installing machine!....otherwise it may not be pretty. To see how this product is installed check out our cantilevered concrete video.
10. If you're considering pavers for your fiberglass pool patio, a popular way to do this is to pour a concrete border around the pool (we like 18") then butt the pavers to this concrete coping. This method is budget friendly because paver coping can get pricey, it is structurally sound because the concrete supports the pool, plus it looks awesome!
11. If you're considering stamped concrete around your fiberglass pool you need to be aware that if your patio is large enough to require multiple truckloads of concrete, the color between the different trucks may not match. These differences in color, if they even occur, are usually very mild, but keep in mind that the darker the concrete color the higher the probability of this occurring.
12. 
Stamped concrete can be very slippery around a pool unless a skid-resistant additive is incorporated into the sealer as it is applied. This will make the surface safe and you should not have any concerns about ‘slippery-ness' if this product is used correctly. But if not, get ready for a backyard version of Disney's swimmers on ice.
13. Keep in mind that the lighter the color of the patio the cooler it stays on your feet. Gotta keep your feet happy!
14. Let's talk about your site: First, access lane....How's the builder getting in and out? Chances are that they do not take down or re-install fences or other barriers. Check with them up front.....no surprises!
15. 
Warning, disturbing comment to follow: Your yard will get destroyed! Sorry, but you're going to find out sooner or later, so I might as well tell you right now. The great thing is that when God created grass, he made it so it grows back.....cool huh?
16. What are you going to do with the dirt? If you have a flat yard with a few ‘low areas', you may be able to use about 1% of the dirt filling them in....so plan on your pool guy getting the stuff out of there so you're not stuck with it. To give you an idea of how much dirt we're talking about, look at the shed out in your back yard.....where talking about a pile of dirt about the size of 5 of those. Yep, it's a lot! Be sure to discuss hauling and dump fees before the project begins.
17. Don't assume your yard is level. In fact, make dang sure someone shoots some elevations in your yard before the project begins. Pool guys are famous for installing a pool then saying, "Ooops, I had no idea your yard had a 3' slope.....I guess you'll need a $5k retaining wall."
18. Don't allow a pool guy to install flexible PVC around your pool...it's a no-no in our book (along with dozens of folks who've contacted us with flex pipe problems since we began writing about this). Heat bending rigid PVC is the only way to fly. Check out our video to see the heat bending process in action and read about it in our article Rigid vs. Flex pvc pipe: Which is Better?.
19. Let's talk fence, but first a disclaimer. River Pools and Spas does not claim to know any barrier requirements (fence code) for any specific areas and the following are only suggestions. So anyway, there are several fence facts that may apply in your area that you need to check on. First, gates normally have to swing out away from the pool, have to self-close, and self-latch. There are also restrictions on the following specifications of a pool fence such as: distance from bottom of fence to the ground, spacing between pickets, type of gate latches, etc. Also, many areas require door alarms on any doors from the house if they open directly into the pool area.
20. Remember bonding? It applies to metal fence as well. If any metal fence, including aluminum, is within 5' of the water's edge of the pool it will need to be bonded....which is a major pain in the butt. So to avoid the hassle make sure your fence is at least 5' away from the pool.
21. Make sure you're pool contractor pressure tests his plumbing. Leaks are bad....avoidable leaks are worse.
22. You must have a dewatering system installed on your fiberglass pool! This is simply a way to access and drain the ground water around the pool if needed. The objective of this system is not to constantly remove the ground water around the pool; it will be fine so long as it remains full of water. However, when your pool needs to be drained (even if it is 50 yrs from now) the ground water around the pool must be removed or less-than-fun things tend to happen. We simply install an 8" pvc pipe off the deep end of the pool and place a skimmer lid on top and leave it. It costs $50....make sure your contractor installs one for Pete's sake! Here's a detailed article on how it's done.
23. We are huge proponents of using gravel to backfill around fiberglass pools as opposed to sand which is the industry standard. There are many reasons for this which you can read about here.
24. If concrete or asphalt driveways will be used for access, be aware that they may incur damage. Use an alternative access lane if available. Grass is cheaper to replace than concrete.
25. Any reputable pool contractor will secure a building permit with local authorities as well as call in to have the utilities in your yard located.
26. The average fiberglass pool holds 10,000 gallons of water. There is a lesson for you contained in each and every gallon: have fun!
Thanks for being here,
Jason Hughes
Comments and questions welcome and appreciated.
Posted by Jason Hughes on Mon, Feb 22, 2010 @ 12:15 PM
Many people, especially when debating over whether to install a fiberglass pool themselves or have a professional installer do it for them, are frankly not quite sure of what a proper installation entails. As we have done with so many other videos regarding the swimming pool industry, this video (produced by Jason Hughes) takes all the essential steps of unloading, excavating, setting, plumbing, filling with water, and backfilling a fiberglass pool and rolls it into a concise yet extremely informative and entertaining 10 minute video.
Upon reviewing the video, if anyone has any comments or questions about what a proper fiberglass pool installation involves, please don't hesitate to put your thoughts below.
As always, we appreciate the involvement of the community that has grown here at the River Pools and Spas blog.
Posted by Jason Hughes on Sat, Dec 05, 2009 @ 04:08 PM
Swimming Pool Plumbing: Rigid PVC vs. Flexible PVC, Which is Better?
By: Jason Hughes http://www.riverpoolsandspas.com/
Visit any online pool and spa forum and you'll find that a leak is one of the most frustrating experiences a pool owner can have. Finding, fixing, and not to mention paying for a leak will make anyone want to pull their hair out! Needless to say, a pool builder needs to use the best installation methods and building materials available to prevent leaks along with all the bloody consequences that follow. Today I want to turn our attention to the most fundamental component of a pool's plumbing: Polyvinyl Chloride tubing....or PVC pipe. There are two primary types of PVC pipe used in residential inground pool construction today: Rigid PVC pipe and Flexible PVC pipe. Let's compare these subterranean tubes to determine which you would rather have under your pool patio.
What Rigid PVC and Flexible PVC have in common:
- Rigid PVC and Flexible PVC pipes both have essentially the same chemical make-up
- Both are cut and glued using the same tools and solvents
- They are joined together using the same PVC fittings
What makes Rigid PVC and Flexible PVC different:
- Rigid pipe, just as its name implies, doesn't bend on its own. This means whenever a turn in the pipe is needed, the installer either has to cut the pipe and install a fitting or heat bend the pipe to get around the turn. Both take time and varying degrees of skill.
- Flexible PVC is made with plasticizers that make it softer and highly flexible. When a turn in flexible PVC is needed the installer simply forms the pipe around the bend and keeps on rolling. This method of installation is much quicker and easier than using rigid PVC pipe.
So far, we can basically see that we have a choice between a pipe that is stronger and more difficult to install verses one that is weaker and easier to install. All things being equal, I'm going with the one that's easier to install! But alas, things are never quite that simple, are they? Here's the deal:
Flexible PVC pipe is much easier to install, but should never be used on an inground swimming pool....period!
Why Flexible PVC pipe should never be used on an inground pool:
1.) Several years ago while attending a seminar on inground pool plumbing the instructor passed a small section of pipe around the room. When it finally came around to me I was astonished! It was a piece of 2" flexible PVC pipe with dozens of tiny holes in it. My first thought was: 'What the heck?' Then the instructor said one word....."Termites!" Flexible PVC pipe is simply not suitable for underground use, but don't take my word for it:
Kuriyama of America, a large distributor of flexible PVC states:
"....Spa Hoses (flexible PVC pipe) can be damaged by rodents or insects, including termites. Spa Hose should not be used underground in areas infested by termites. Our warranty does not cover damages caused by them...This product warning shall be given to every purchaser of Spa Hose. (Rev. 7/98)"
http://kuriyama.thomasnet.com/viewitems/flex-industrial-products-thermoplastic-hose-liquid/spa-hose-flexible-pvc-spa-pool-hose?&sortid=1248&measuresortid=0
PlumbingSupply.com has this at the bottom of their flexible PVC page:
"Note: Spa Hoses can be damaged by rodents or insects, including termites."
Do I even need to ask if you have termites? Does it really matter? Why would you take the chance? The more appropriate question is: Why would a pool builder take the chance?
2.) Flexible PVC pipe is much easier to puncture or crush than rigid PVC pipe. It's simply not as strong, and considering all the pressures exerted on underground pipe, strength is a good thing! I have seen "flex pipe" crushed and punctured both during construction and while working in a yard with existing pipe in the ground. Anyone digging in a back yard needs to use caution, but personally, I would feel much more comfortable digging in a backyard that I know has rigid pipe versus flex pipe.
So Why is Flexible PVC used on Inground Pools?
Although the swimming pool contractors that use flexible PVC on inground pools are in the minority, they are out there. I believe and hope it's because they don't know any better. There's no doubt that it saves time, and we all know that time is money. The real question is: ‘Will you have it in your back yard?' Needless to say I wouldn't and neither will any of my customers! The last thing we need is to feed the termite population and waste our time finding and fixing leaks! Please feel free to comment below and don't forget to subscribe to our blog before leaving. Take Care!