Attention Fiberglass Pool Shoppers: 26 Things You Must Know Before Breaking Ground!

If you want a crash course on the finer details of a fiberglass pool installation then you've come to the right place.  Contained in this article are points of a fiberglass pool project that are NOT frequently covered on the internet, or possibly even in your backyard with your contractor, but are absolutely essential to a successful installation.  These are the things you absolutely should know before the first piece of equipment shows up. 

These points are in random order.    Get ready for a Fiberglass Pool Feeding Frenzy!

 

1.  If electrical hook-up is not included in the contractor's standard package keep this in mind:

The further your filter system is from the house (or an existing sub-panel) the more the initial electrical hook-up cost will be.  In our area, placing the filter system in the yard as opposed to being adjacent to the house will increase the price $500-$1000. 

 2.  The filter system does not need to be enclosed to protect it from the weather.  It's made to be outside already!

 3.  The filter system does not need to be located directly beside the pool.  On most occasions as long as it is within 50'-60' of the pool its fine....and it can be much, much further away if needed.  Read more about filter system location here.  

 4.  Most contractors do not pour a concrete pad for the pump and filter system  to sit on.  They usually bring out one of those plastic deals like the ones used for your house hvac units. 

 5.  You need to become familiar with the term bonding because many regions have not adopted the latest bonding requirements for fiberglass pools (which are necessary) and therefore some local contractors may not be bonding their pools properly. 

 6.  Bonding is essentially a means of making all components around the pool that bathers come in contact with the same voltage potential.  In non-pool guy terms, it's a way to insure swimmers do not get shocked by the stuff around the pool.  This is accomplished by connecting these components together with a bare copper wire.  The things that need to be bonded around the pool include but are not limited to handrails, ladders, slides, metal pool lights, the pool deck, and the water in the pool.  I can't emphasize the importance of proper bonding enough....please research it and ask your pool guy how he bonds his pools.  Getting zapped by a handrail can be a traumatizing experience.

7.  Most areas require a plug-in service receptacle between 10' and 20' of the water's edge of the pool so plan accordingly.  Everyone asks the same question..."why?"  Best I can figure is because at 10' a standard cord on an appliance will not reach pool-side, and at 20' folks will break out the extension cord in order to reach the pool area.....in which case it may get a little too close to the pool, Ouch! 

8.  Regarding pool decks: if you are considering concrete as your material of choice, you need to understand that IT CRACKS!  It is a guarantee that concrete will crack every 12'-15' throughout a pool deck.  Contractors understand this and install control joints (cut, groves, or pieces of material) in the concrete to attempt to force the crack to occur within the pretty straight line of their joint.  The problem is that sometimes concrete decides to crack where it wants despite the intentions of the contractor.  These "shrinkage cracks" are not structural in nature and are not indicative of unsuitable concrete, an unstable base, or poor workmanship.  There is no guarantee that you will get a shrinkage crack on your patio, but if the chance of it occurring makes you shudder, you might want to consider another option....like pavers or natural stone.

9.  Pool coping is the material that borders the inside of the pool and provides the transition between the pool and the patio.  90% of all fiberglass pools installed in the United States have what's known as cantilevered concrete coping.  This is a poured-in-place concrete coping that's affordable, looks great, and lasts a long, long time.  However, most fiberglass pool installers will tell you that it is also the most difficult portion of the project.  Make sure your concrete finisher is a well seasoned cantilevered concrete installing machine!....otherwise it may not be pretty.  To see how this product is installed check out our cantilevered concrete video. 

10.  If you're considering pavers for your fiberglass pool patio, a popular way to do this is to pour a concrete border around the pool (we like 18") then butt the pavers to this concrete coping.  This method is budget friendly because paver coping can get pricey, it is structurally sound because the concrete supports the pool, plus it looks awesome!

11.  If you're considering stamped concrete around your fiberglass pool you need to be aware that if your patio is large enough to require multiple truckloads of concrete, the color between the different trucks may not match.  These differences in color, if they even occur, are usually very mild, but keep in mind that the darker the concrete color the higher the probability of this occurring.    

12.  Stamped concrete can be very slippery around a pool unless a skid-resistant additive is incorporated into the sealer as it is applied.  This will make the surface safe and you should not have any concerns about ‘slippery-ness' if this product is used correctly.  But if not, get ready for a backyard version of Disney's swimmers on ice.  

13.  Keep in mind that the lighter the color of the patio the cooler it stays on your feet.  Gotta keep your feet happy!

14.  Let's talk about your site:  First, access lane....How's the builder getting in and out?  Chances are that they do not take down or re-install fences or other barriers.  Check with them up front.....no surprises!

15.  Warning, disturbing comment to follow:  Your yard will get destroyed!  Sorry, but you're going to find out sooner or later, so I might as well tell you right now.  The great thing is that when God created grass, he made it so it grows back.....cool huh?

16.  What are you going to do with the dirt?  If you have a flat yard with a few ‘low areas', you may be able to use about 1% of the dirt filling them in....so plan on your pool guy getting the stuff out of there so you're not stuck with it.  To give you an idea of how much dirt we're talking about, look at the shed out in your back yard.....where talking about a pile of dirt about the size of 5 of those.  Yep, it's a lot!  Be sure to discuss hauling and dump fees before the project begins.

17.  Don't assume your yard is level.  In fact, make dang sure someone shoots some elevations in your yard before the project begins.  Pool guys are famous for installing a pool then saying, "Ooops, I had no idea your yard had a 3' slope.....I guess you'll need a $5k retaining wall." 

18.  Don't allow a pool guy to install flexible PVC around your pool...it's a no-no in our book (along with dozens of folks who've contacted us with flex pipe problems since we began writing about this).  Heat bending rigid PVC is the only way to fly.  Check out our video to see the heat bending process in action and read about it in our article Rigid vs. Flex pvc pipe: Which is Better?. 

19.  Let's talk fence, but first a disclaimer.  River Pools and Spas does not claim to know any barrier requirements (fence code) for any specific areas and the following are only suggestions.  So anyway, there are several fence facts that may apply in your area that you need to check on.  First, gates normally have to swing out away from the pool, have to self-close, and self-latch.  There are also restrictions on the following specifications of a pool fence such as:  distance from bottom of fence to the ground, spacing between pickets, type of gate latches, etc.  Also, many areas require door alarms on any doors from the house if they open directly into the pool area. 

20.  Remember bonding?  It applies to metal fence as well.  If any metal fence, including aluminum, is within 5' of the water's edge of the pool it will need to be bonded....which is a major pain in the butt.  So to avoid the hassle make sure your fence is at least 5' away from the pool.   

21.  Make sure you're pool contractor pressure tests his plumbing.  Leaks are bad....avoidable leaks are worse.

22.  You must have a dewatering system installed on your fiberglass pool!  This is simply a way to access and drain the ground water around the pool if needed.  The objective of this system is not to constantly remove the ground water around the pool; it will be fine so long as it remains full of water.  However, when your pool needs to be drained (even if it is 50 yrs from now) the ground water around the pool must be removed or less-than-fun things tend to happen.   We simply install an 8" pvc pipe off the deep end of the pool and place a skimmer lid on top and leave it.  It costs $50....make sure your contractor installs one for Pete's sake!  Here's a detailed article on how it's done. 

23.  We are huge proponents of using gravel to backfill around fiberglass pools as opposed to sand which is the industry standard.  There are many reasons for this which you can read about here.

24.  If concrete or asphalt driveways will be used for access, be aware that they may incur damage.  Use an alternative access lane if available.  Grass is cheaper to replace than concrete. 

25.  Any reputable pool contractor will secure a building permit with local authorities as well as call in to have the utilities in your yard located.

26.  The average fiberglass pool holds 10,000 gallons of water.  There is a lesson for you contained in each and every gallon:  have fun! 

 

Thanks for being here,

Jason Hughes

Comments and questions welcome and appreciated.   

   

 

 

Stamped vs. Brushed/Broomed Concrete for Swimming Pools: Which is Better?

One of the biggest debates that pool shoppers have during the process of building their swimming pool is which type of concrete to use for their patio. And although there are many, many types of patios that can go around a swimming pool (like brushed concrete, stamped concrete, pavers, stone, brick, overlays, etc), this article will solely focus on helping you to understand the pros and cons to brushed (aka broomed) vs. stamped. By so doing, you will be able to make the best choice for you and your family.

Brushed Concrete vs. Stamped Concrete: A Comparison

Maintenance

                Broomed concrete is definitely less maintenance than stamped. The main reason for this is because stamped concrete must be sealed every 2-3 years. The process of sealing it is relatively simple and done with a roller, but the sealer is a little bit expensive, likely costing the homeowner a few hundred dollars each time. But keep in mind  the sealer is critical to the stamped concrete because otherwise its appearance will be dull, therefore causing it to not nearly have the same aesthetic impact it should normally have.

Aesthetics:

                Without question, stamped concrete, especially when done the right way, is absolutely beautiful. With so many colors and patterns now available, stamped concrete can almost match any appearance the homeowner is looking for and completely alter the look and feel of a backyard. Brushed concrete, for all of its functional benefits, simply doesn't stand up aesthetically to stamp. This does not mean that it's ugly; it just isn't quite as pleasing to the eye as is stamped. Personally, when it comes down to it, I feel both options can look very nice when designed with some character and surrounded by nice landscaping.

Cost

                Of all the types of patios that one can put around a swimming pool, regular concrete is certainly the most inexpensive. In most cases, it costs 40-70% less than stamped concrete (This typically equates to a 2-6k difference on most pools). Also, because there is no serious maintenance required down the road (like sealing), the residual expenses are very low as well.

Safety

                Because regular concrete does not require any type of sealer, its rougher surface lends itself nicely to wet, bare-feet. I have heard of customers fearful that broomed concrete will be too rough, but such is rarely ever the case. In fact, I've never once heard a pool owner complain of this once they've owned their swimming pool. On the other hand, stamped concrete is well known for its slippery nature. Because the product is sealed, no question it can have this issue. This is why it is a must that pool installers and homeowners add some type of substance to counteract the slippery nature of the sealer. For example, when our company seals a patio we add a polymeric substance called Sharkgrip, which adds a fine texture to the sealer and lessens the potential of any slipping hazards.

Which should I choose?

This is a good question, and frankly, I can't answer it for you. I've known many customers that have loved both products. My suggestion is that you look at the list above and base your decision on that. If aesthetics are your #1 concern and goal, then you likely should consider stamped. If you're looking to have the absolute least amount of maintenance possible, then broomed might be your answer. Either way, I do understand that it can be a tough call at times and wish you the best of luck with your decision.

Marcus Sheridan

Questions involving concrete? If you already own a pool, what are your thoughts on this debate? As always, we appreciate your comments and promise to answer any questions that are left in the comments section below.

How to Pour Concrete Coping around a Fiberglass Pool Video

Fiberglass Pool Coping: A How-To Video

One of the biggest factors in the success of a fiberglass pool project is the proper forming and pouring of the concrete patio. The absolute best way to achieve maximum structural integrity, as well as aesthetics, is to use cantilever forms. But as we've talked about many times in this blog, the reality is that many fiberglass pool builders have not yet fully grasped this construction technique.

This is why we at River Pools and Spas are so excited about this video, as it is, at least far as we're aware,  the first of its kind. We hope that this video will be a tool for novice and even experienced fiberglass pool builders around the world to help them refine their trade and in-turn elevate the entire industry. We also hope this video will be utilized by homeowners attempting to bite off the huge task of building their own fiberglass pool from scratch in a DIY project.

If anyone has any questions regarding this unique skill, feel free to email Jason Hughes, who produced and narrated this entire video, at riverpoolsjason@gmail.com ... 

Also, we invite all to leave comments, questions, or thoughts below.

 

 

Why is Pouring Concrete(Cantilever Coping) Around a Fiberglass Pool so Difficult? (Must See Photos)

As I've mentioned before, one of the beauties of having a national pool blog is the fact that I get emails from all over the country from people who have experienced good, bad, and ugly during their swimming pool installation and ownership process.  When it comes to fiberglass pools, one of the subjects I hear most about has to do with concrete patios, and more specifically, cantilever coping.

In the past, fiberglass pools were labeled as ‘bath tubby' due to the fact that so many builders poured the concrete patio up to the lip of the fiberglass, versus over the lip(cantilevered) as it is usually done today. (Picture to the left shows what this is should to look like)The problem with pouring cantilever concrete around a pool though, especially a fiberglass pool, is that it's rather difficult to do unless you've practiced the skill multiple times.

You see, cantilever concrete around a fiberglass swimming pool requires the installation of special forms that are made of Styrofoam. These forms are temporarily attached to the lip of the fiberglass and once the concrete decking has been poured, they are stripped off and what's left is a bull-nose finish(hopefully).

The problem that most contractors have is that when these forms are stripped off, the coping that's left can be jagged, honey-combed, and extremely unsightly. This is mainly due to improper installation of the forms as well as improper handling of the forms during the concrete pour. I've even seen many cases where large clumps of coping have simply been ripped off the pool deck when the forms were removed. Obviously, such occasions are disastrous for the aesthetics of any pool and can be extremely difficult to repair without tearing concrete out.

 This brings me to another major point. If you are considering a "Build Your Own Pool" or "Do-It-Yourself" fiberglass pool project, then you better have a good idea as to who is going to pour your patio. I've had countless homeowners over the years tell me, "Marcus, I have an uncle that does concrete and so we'll take care of the pool's decking." or "Marcus, I'm really good with concrete so we'll be taking care of the patio." Years ago, I would simply allow homeowners to go down this road without truly making them aware of the possible ramifications of their decision. But after having seen so many disastrous pool patios and copings, I now loudly vocalize these 3 truths:

• 1. Your pool's patio, and coping, will make or break the entire look of the project.
• 2. I don't care how many ‘pool decks' a concrete finisher has poured, all that matters is the number of ‘cantilevered concrete decks' around a fiberglass pool he has poured.
• 3. Do not allow your pool's patio to be a contractor's guinea pig.

The pictures shown on here were sent to me by a homeowner who had his pool's concrete poured by someone who frankly didn't know what they were doing. They are a perfect example of what can go wrong when pouring concrete around a fiberglass pool and should be a reminder to everyone of what can go wrong if your don't do the proper leg work in choosing the right contractor for your swimming pool project.

I also want to emphasize the need to decide, if you are doing a ‘Do-It-Yourself' project, on a concrete contractor before you buy the pool. Every year I get phone calls that go something like this:

"Marcus, I bought a fiberglass pool direct from the manufacturer. They helped set the pool and backfill it but now I'm not sure who is going to do the concrete. Who should I call?"

Such moments make me slap my forehead because in some parts of this country, there simply aren't contractors that have any clue whatsoever as to how to pour concrete around a fiberglass pool. Often times these homeowners end up settling on ugly non-cantilevered concrete or they end up finding someone who will do a stone/block coping instead, which is pretty expensive.

So keep this in mind as you prepare for your swimming pool installation in 2010 and if you have any questions/comments about fiberglass pool decking whatsoever, make sure you write them below, as we LOVE hearing from our readers!!

Marcus Sheridan

Want to receive a quote for your swimming pool or repair, anywhere in the US or Canada? Just click this photo and start getting calls immediately.

 

Swimming Pool Patio Q &A: Will my concrete pool patio crack?

 

Swimming Pool Patio Q &A: Will my concrete pool patio crack? 

By:  Jason Hughes

http://www.riverpoolsandspas.com/

http://www.poolschool.us/

Ben Franklin made the famous statement that the only things guaranteed in life are death and taxes.  I've got news for you; good ole' Ben was wrong!  Try this one:  Death.....taxes.......and concrete will crack!  That's not quite as catchy, but it's true nonetheless.  So the straight answer to the question is:  Yes your concrete pool deck will crack.  But don't get excited, we're going to discuss why concrete cracks and then talk solutions.  Let's see if we can comprehend this contrary characteristic of concrete.      

There are several types of cracks that occur in concrete.  Among them are shrinkage cracks, structural cracks, freeze cracks, or cracks that occur from a "bad mix" of concrete, also known as product failure.  Today we will focus on the one made popular by that famous episode of Seinfeld.  Yep guys......that dang shrinkage strikes again!  Seriously though, I want to look at shrinkage cracks because of the many types of cracks that occur in concrete, shrinkage cracks are the only ones not caused by human error, but a naturally occurring property of concrete.  In other words, the only type guaranteed to happen to everyone.  We'll talk about what causes shrinkage cracks and how to best manage them.  We'll save the other types of cracks for another discussion; but for now, let's look at what causes shrinkage cracks in concrete.     

Basically what happens is this:   Concrete is poured and placed in a fluid state.  During and after finishing a chemical reaction occurs between the water and Portland cement which causes the concrete to harden.  As the concrete hardens it cures and water is consumed in the reaction resulting in a loss of volume.  This loss of volume causes the concrete to shrink at a rate of about one-sixteenth of an inch per ten feet.  The concrete literally pulls itself apart as this occurs.  So guess what happens to concrete every ten to twelve feet.  You got it......a crack.  These cracks typically occur shortly after pouring the concrete; anywhere from the same day to a few months down the road.  When these cracks do occur, the crack does run through the entire thickness of the concrete slab and does typically run across the entire section of concrete.  But this begs the question:  What in the world can we do to manage these frustrating fissures?

The solution is to do like Janet Jackson says and "control" the cracking of the concrete (remember that song.....from the 80's.....ok sorry).  Control joints are the answer, or at least the best treatment.  To better understand control joints let's look at the structure of a graham cracker.  They come in big squares that are scored into sections to help you break it into smaller predictable pieces.  Well, that's what we do with concrete.  We score the concrete in strategic places to weaken the concrete and force the crack to occur within our pretty little line.  These joints are installed by either cutting the concrete with a saw after it has set up or by "hand tooling" a joint while the concrete is being finished.  Next time you see a concrete slab or sidewalk take a peek inside the control joints.    You will see that the concrete has cracked down inside at least half of them.  The problem that we've all had is that sometimes graham crackers don't break were we want them to.  The same thing happens with concrete.  Sometimes a crack will occur outside of a control joint.  Fortunately these cases are in the minority, but there are methods that concrete finishers can employ to help the concrete the behave and crack where expected. 

Here are three important points to consider when trying to manage shrinkage cracks in concrete:

1.  Joint placement is critical, especially with pool patios.  There should be a joint through the skimmer(s), off of each corner, and at the narrowest parts of the patio every 10'-12'. 

2.  The depth of the control joints need to be at least ¼ of the thickness of the slab to be effective.

3.  The amount of water added to the concrete mix also plays a significant factor.  Think about it:  more water = more shrinkage.  The "wetter" the concrete is, the easier it is for the finisher to place.  That will make for an easier day for them but is bad news for you.  We'll discuss the details of this at a later time, but for now just remember that too much water = un-necessary cracks.

The reality is that there is no such thing as the perfect product.  There are pros and cons to every patio material.  This is the ying and yang of the construction world.  Factors like maintenance, initial and lifetime cost, as well as inherent product flaws all need consideration in determining which patio material is best for you.  Well, there you have it!  Who would have thought that Ben Franklin, Jerry Seinfeld, and Janet Jackson could have taught us anything about concrete?  What a crazy world we live in! 

Notwithstanding, concrete is a serious business and it's important to remember two things: 

1.)  Just because it will crack doesn't mean that you will see it. 

2.)  Your contractor can take measures to reduce and control shrinkage cracks in concrete.

So until next time take care, enjoy those graham crackers, and don't forget to subscribe to our blog in the upper right hand corner of the page.      

 

Inground Pool Pictures from River Pools and Spas: Hot off the Press!!!

by:  Jason Hughes

www.riverpoolsandspas.com

www.PoolSchool.us

Click "Play" to view a slideshow of our latest inground pool pictures.  All of these inground pool pictures are of fiberglass pools.  You will also see some of our stamped concrete work as well as several water features we've had the pleasure of working on this year. 

 

Fiberglass Pool Coping: Cantilevered Concrete Video

By Jason Hughes: www.PoolSchool.us

View the following video to learn about fiberglass pool coping finished with a bullnosed/cantilevered edge.

 

Stamped Concrete Options: Flagstone Pattern w/ Tan Color

Guide to Stamped Concrete around Fiberglass Pools